How to Measure an English Saddle: Complete Guide for Riders

A saddle that doesn’t fit properly can turn every ride into a struggle for both you and your horse. The tricky part is that “saddle size” actually refers to two completely different measurements—one for rider fit and one for horse fit—and mixing them up can lead to costly mistakes. A properly fitted saddle helps facilitate communication between horse and rider, prevents injuries, and even boosts performance.

This guide walks you through measuring seat size, gullet width, and the secondary measurements that affect how a saddle performs, plus how to tell when something isn’t fitting right.

What is an English saddle?

An English saddle is a lightweight, close-contact saddle used for disciplines like dressage, jumping, eventing, and fox hunting. Compared to Western saddles, which have a horn and deeper seat for ranch work, English saddles sit flatter and allow you to feel your horse’s movement more directly.

The main parts include the pommel (the front arch), the cantle (the raised back), the seat, the flaps, and the tree, which is the internal frame that shapes how the saddle sits on your horse. English saddles come in different styles depending on your discipline. Close contact saddles work well for jumping, dressage saddles have longer flaps for leg position, and all-purpose saddles split the difference for riders who do a bit of everything.

Browse English saddles →

How to measure an English saddle

To measure an English saddle seat, place a tape measure at the center of the pommel button and measure diagonally to the center of the cantle. A 17-inch seat fits most average adult riders, while 16-inch works for smaller riders and an 18-inch seat accommodates male riders, taller or longer-legged riders.

Here’s the thing that trips people up: measuring a saddle actually involves two completely different measurements. Seat size and flap measurements tell you whether the saddle fits you. Tree width tells you whether it fits your horse. One has nothing to do with the other, so you’ll want to check both before buying.

What you’ll need

Grab a flexible measuring tape, the kind made of fabric or soft plastic. A stiff metal tape measure makes this harder than it has to be. You’ll also want a flat surface or saddle stand to keep the saddle steady, plus something to write down your numbers.

If you’re buying a saddle online or investing in a higher-end option, having a professional saddle fitter confirm your measurements can save you from an expensive mistake.

Where saddle measurements are taken

Seat size is measured on top of the saddle, running diagonally from the pommel button to the center of the cantle. Gullet width is measured underneath, between the panels at the front.

If you’re new to saddle anatomy, here are the key terms:

• Pommel: The front arch of the saddle.
• Cantle: The raised back portion of the seat.
• Seat: Where the rider sits, often available in flat, semi-deep, and deep seat in some saddle brands. Seat preference is based on rider discipline.*
• Skirt: Covers the stirrup bar and keeps the buckle of the stirrup leather from contact with the rider. 
• Stirrup bar: Located under skirt, attached to tree, secures stirrups and leathers in place.
• Flap: The exterior of the saddle sides where the rider’s leg goes. Often available in short, long, regular, and forward configurations.
• Blocks: Located under the flap and assist with rider leg stability.
• Billet: Attached to the tree and used to secure the girth.
• Billet guard: Barrier between girth buckles and flap to prevent excessive wear.
• Tree: The internal skeleton of the saddle that determines how the saddle will sit on your horse’s back.
• Tree points: The two ends of the tree at the front of the saddle that sit behind the horse’s shoulder. The distance between them is the gullet width.
• Gullet: The arched opening at the front of the saddle between the two tree points. Gullet width is the measurement between these points. Some saddles have interchangeable gullet plates that adjust this width. 
• Channel: The open space running lengthwise under the saddle between the two panels. Provides clearance for the horse’s spine.
• Panels: The flocked (padded) cushion on the bottom of the saddle on either side of the channel that rests on the horse’s back. 
• Flocking: Made of wool, foam, or synthetic materials. Flocking wool or synthetic wool can be adjusted to fit your horse. Most foam-flocked saddles cannot be adjusted.

*Note: Seat depth changes the feel of the saddle size. It is not uncommon for a rider to go up a size when moving from a jumping saddle to a dressage saddle.

How to measure English saddle seat size

Seat size is the measurement most people think of when they talk about saddle size. It tells you whether you’ll fit comfortably in the saddle or feel cramped (or lost) in the seat.

Step 1: Locate the reference points

Look for the nail heads on either side of the pommel’s front. Sometimes called buttons or brads, they’re small metal circles, and you can use either the left or right one. Both give you the same measurement.

Some saddles have concealed or flush nail heads that are harder to spot. If you can’t find them, measure from the center of the pommel where they would typically be, or look for a small button or screw on either side.

Step 2: Measure the seat

Place your tape at the pommel button and run it straight to the center of the cantle. Not the top edge of the cantle, but the middle of it. You’re measuring diagonally across the inside of the seat.

English saddles are always measured in inches, not centimeters. The number you get (say, 17″) is the saddle’s seat size. Most adult sizes fall between 16″ and 18″, though brands can vary slightly in how they label things.

Seat sizing tips

Half sizes exist for a reason. Even a half-inch difference affects your balance and hip angle in the saddle, so don’t assume close enough is good enough.

A common mistake is measuring over the leather instead of starting at the nail head. Another is thinking your body measurement equals your saddle seat measurement. They’re related, but they’re not the same number.

How to choose the right seat size

Measure your thigh from hip to knee

Sit on a flat chair with your feet on the floor. Measure from the back of your buttocks to the inside of your knee. This gives you a rough estimate of the seat length that will likely feel comfortable.

Factor in your height and build

Taller riders with longer legs typically fit often fit better in a long or forward flap saddle to accommodate the length of the rider’s femur. Riders with especially long legs may require a long forward flap. The petite rider may find a short flap to be more accommodating as well. A shorter rider with a longer torso may fit differently than height alone suggests.

16.5 vs. 17 inch saddle: what’s the difference

That half-inch affects your pelvic space and hip angle more than you might expect. A slightly smaller seat keeps you more secure but can feel cramped if you’re between sizes. A slightly larger seat gives you room to move but may reduce stability.

If you’re between sizes, consider your discipline. Jumping riders often prefer a snugger fit for security over fences, while dressage riders may appreciate a bit more room for following the horse’s movement.

Use the four-finger check when seated

Once you’re mounted, check that you can fit about a hand’s width (roughly four fingers) between your seat and the cantle. If you’re bumping the cantle or have excessive space, the seat size likely isn’t right for you.

How to measure the English saddle gullet width

Gullet width is the distance between the two tree points at the front of the saddle, sometimes called the dot-to-dot measurement. It helps indicate whether the saddle will clear your horse’s shoulders and withers. This has nothing to do with rider fit, so even if the seat size is right for you, the wrong gullet width can cause real problems for your horse.

Step 1: Locate the tree points

Flip the saddle over. The open space running lengthwise between the two panels is the channel. The gullet is the arched area at the very front, where the two tree points sit just behind where the horse’s shoulders would be. You’re measuring across the gullet, not down the channel.

Step 2: Measure across the gullet

Measure the distance between the two tree points at the front of the saddle and record the number in inches. Often, riders would refer to this as the dot-to-dot measurement, since flocking dots often mark where the tree points sit.

Your gullet measurement corresponds to a tree width. Brands classify tree width using labels like N (narrow), MN (medium narrow),  M (medium), MW (medium-wide), W (wide), and XW (extra-wide), and that’s what most riders shop by. As a quick field check, a medium tree fits roughly one fist between the tree points. Labeling varies by brand and region—some use centimeters, some use inches—so the chart below is a starting point, not a universal standard.

How to measure your horse’s gullet width

Now you know how to measure the gullet of an English saddle, the next step is measuring your horse’s gullet width to ensure that an English saddle fits correctly. You’ll need a flexible measuring tape or a long string and a ruler for this.

• Step one: Find the widest part of the withers where the gullet of the saddle will sit. The withers are the highest part of your horse’s back, between shoulder blades.  Learn more about your horse’s anatomy →
• Step two: If using a flexible measuring tape, extend it across the horse’s withers at the widest point. If you’re using a string, gently place it along the gullet area, following the contour of your horse’s withers.
• Step three: If you’re using a measuring tape, note the measurement where it crosses the withers. 

Consult a professional saddle fitter if you need clarification on the measurement or saddle fit. They can provide expert advice and assistance in finding the right saddle for your horse.

Why tree width matters

The gullet provides spine clearance and distributes pressure across your horse’s back. A gullet that’s too narrow pinches the withers. One that’s too wide lets the saddle sit directly on the spine, which creates pressure points.

Signs of poor tree fit include bridging (where the saddle rocks front to back), pinching at the withers, or the saddle shifting side to side during riding. When you’re unsure, a professional saddle fitter can assess whether the gullet works for your horse’s build.

Other English saddle measurements to know

Beyond seat size and gullet width, two secondary measurements help ensure proper fit, especially if you have longer or shorter legs than average:

• Flap length: Measure from the top of the stirrup bar diagonally to the longest point of the flap
• Flap width: Measure at the widest point of the flap, from front to back

Flap measurements affect where your knee sits and how the saddle looks on your horse. They matter most when you’re between sizes or have proportions that don’t match the “standard” rider build.

English saddle sizes explained

Standard English saddle seats range from about 15″ to 18″. However, size alone doesn’t guarantee a correct fit. Tree shape, panel design, and flap configuration all play a role in how a saddle actually feels.

Discipline affects fit, too. A close contact jumping saddle and a dressage saddle labeled the same size may feel quite different because of their distinct designs. Dressage saddles typically have longer, straighter flaps and a deep seat, while jumping saddles have more forward-cut flaps and a flatter seat that accommodate a shorter stirrup length.

English saddle size chart

Use the charts below as starting points. Fit varies by brand, style, and discipline, so treat these as guidelines rather than guarantees.

Seat Size by Rider Thigh Measurement

Thigh Length	Suggested Seat Size
Under 16.5″	15″ saddle
16.5″ – 18.5″	16″ saddle
18.5″ – 20″	16.5″ saddle
20″ – 21.5″	17″ saddle
21.5″ – 23″	17.5″ saddle
23+”	18″ saddle

Tree Width Classification Reference

Tree Label	Approximate Width	General Horse Type
Narrow (N)	~4.5″	Fine bone, narrow shoulder horses.
Medium (M)	~5″	Average warmblood, Quarter Horse
Medium-Wide (MW)	~5.5″	Broader warmbloods
Wide (W)	~6″	Wide-backed horses
Extra-Wide (XW)	~7″+	Draft crosses, very wide backs

Tip: Tree width labeling varies by brand. When investing in a higher-end saddle, a professional fitting helps confirm you’re choosing the right width for your horse.

How to measure western saddle seat size differently

If you’re shopping for both English and Western saddles, the sizing doesn’t transfer directly between them.

Where western saddles are measured

Western saddles measure from the base of the horn to the top of the cantle, straight across the seat. That’s a different reference point than English saddles use.

Why English and western sizes are not interchangeable

A 17″ English saddle is not the same fit as a 17″ Western saddle. Riders typically fit a larger number in English saddle sizing, often 1″ to 2″ larger than Western. Don’t assume sizes match across styles. And of course, Western saddles aren’t appropriate for English disciplines like dressage, jumping, or eventing.

Learn more: English vs. Western Riding: What’s the Difference?

Common saddle measurement mistakes to avoid

A few errors come up again and again when riders measure saddles:

• Measuring over the leather instead of using the nail head as your starting point
• Confusing body measurement with saddle size: Your thigh measurement helps estimate seat size, but it isn’t the same number
• Ignoring gullet width and focusing only on seat size
• Assuming all brands fit the same at the same labeled size
• Skipping the on-horse check — once you’ve saddled your horse, always verify the fit before riding

Signs your English saddle is the wrong size

Signs a saddle seat is too small

• Bumping the cantle: Your seat hits the back of the saddle regularly
• Feeling cramped: Your thighs extend past the saddle flaps
• Difficulty balancing: No room to shift your weight when you need to

Signs a saddle seat is too large

• Sliding around: You move excessively in the seat
• Posting difficulties: Hard to maintain rhythm at the trot
• Bracing with legs: Overcompensating for lack of seat contact

Finding the right English saddle fit with expert help

Proper saddle fit involves both rider and horse considerations, and getting it right makes a real difference in comfort, balance, and performance. If you’re unsure about measurements or fit, Farmhouse Tack offers remote fitting services and personalized guidance from experienced English riders who can help you work through the details.

Browse our English saddle collection to explore options across disciplines and price points, or check out our saddle pads and girths to complete your setup.

Frequently asked questions about English saddle sizing

What is the three finger rule for saddle fit?

The three-finger rule refers to checking that you can fit approximately three fingers between the highest point of the pommel and your horse’s withers. This helps prevent painful pinching.

What size horse does a 17 inch English saddle fit?

Saddle seat size refers to rider fit, not horse fit. A 17″ seat fits an average adult rider. The saddle’s tree width and gullet size determine horse fit separately.

What size is a 7 inch gullet on an English saddle?

A 7″ gullet is considered extra-wide and suits horses with broad, flat backs, such as draft crosses or wide-backed horses. Most English saddles have narrower gullets in the 4.5″ to 6″ range.

How do you measure an English saddle without visible nail heads?

Some saddles have concealed or flush nail heads. Measure from the center where the skirt and pommel meet to the center of the cantle.

What is the dot-to-dot measurement?

This refers to the flocking dots on the panels just under the cantle. Generally speaking, if you can put your fist between the dots, the saddle is usually a regular or medium tree. This can be subjective depending on the width of the first. A more consistent way to determine this is to ask for the ‘dot-to-dot’ measurements. This will be the width of the gullet, and when combined with the chart above, can help you determine tree size. This information can be very helpful as each saddler can use different measurements to determine tree width. 

How to measure a saddle without flocking dots?

If the saddle is missing flocking dots, which is common in saddles that use foam or synthetic flocking, the easiest way to determine gullet width would be to go about ¾” from the top of the panel down and ¾” of an inch from the front edge of the panel in on both sides and measure from side to side. 

How do I know what width saddle my horse needs?

The best way to determine this is to purchase a 24” flexible ruler, like this one.
Find the point of your horse’s shoulder, place the ruler a hand’s width toward the hind quarters over the horse’s back, and manipulate the ruler to hold the shape of your horse’s back.

Once the ruler shape is set, mark a notch on the ruler to indicate the height at the point of the shoulder. Remove and place on a large sheet of paper or poster board. Trace the inside of the ruler measurement onto the paper. Be sure to note the notch for the point of the shoulder.

Measure the inside of the drawing from the point of the shoulder to the point of the shoulder. This will give you a good idea of what tree will accommodate your horse.

You might also like:

• 10 Best English Jumping Saddles
• How to Clean and Care for Your Saddle
• Pro Tips on Tack Cleaning and Leather Care